Shower pan repair

Shower pans cannot be permanantly repaired unless they are made of fiberglass or terrazo. If the shower pan is not fiberglass or terrazo, it needs to be removed and replaced. Fiberglass and terrazo shower pans can be temporarily repaired. Let's take 1 at a time.

Terrazo shower pan: If a terrazo pan is leaking it is either because it has a visible crack or the seal from the drain pipe to the pan is broken. If the shower pan is leaking from a visible crack, you can fill the crack with a 2 part epoxy or with 100% silicone. This is only a temporary fix, the crack will continue to spread and your leak will come back. If your terrazo is not leaking , but just old and ugly you can sand and polish it to make it look just like new. If you terrazo pan is leaking from where the drain connects to the pipe, you need to replace the terrazo pan.

Fiberglass shower pan: If a fiberglass pan is leaking it is because it has a visible crack or the seal from the drain pipe to the pan is broken. If the shower pan is leaking from a visible crack, you can open up the crack to make a hole. Support the the perimeter of the fiberglas pan around the hole with cement or fixall. Fill in the hole with cement or fixall. Use fiberglass sheet to cover hole and overlap existing fiberglass pan. Apply new fiberglass resin. Color can be added to resin, and gel coat can be applied after resin has dried to make easier to clean. This repair is only temporary, the fiberglass pan is still flexible and will eventually re-crack and leak. If the pan leak is from where the pipe connects to the pan, a new rubber seal can be installed.

Any questions on these procedures can be answered for free by commenting on this blog, or you can call Coastline Tile and Shower at (800)-313-1078 or go to coastlinetileonline.com.

Shower Pan Replacement

Replacing your shower pan requires more skill than your average tile setter has. You should really get someone experienced in waterproofing to do this project. I will give you an overall outline of what this job entails and if you have any questions you can make comments at the bottom of the page.

Step #1- Demolition: In the state of California, you are required to cut out the existing pan at least 2 inches above the wood in the dam. From that point on down you need to remove the tile, backing (cement, wonderboard, greenboard etc.) and the old pan(tar, pvc liner, fiberglass, terrazo etc.). This removal includes the top and inside of the dam (curb, threshold etc.).

Step #2- Subdrain: Take apart the subdrain. The 2 halves of the subdrain should be attached to each other on each side of the pan with 3 or 4 bolts. Remove these bolts and seperate the 2 halves. The state of California requires that you replace the subdrain.

Step #3- Wood repair: Replace any rotted or damaged wood and make sure you have blocking between the studs wherever possible.

Step #4- Install new pan (waterproofing): Hot mop shower up to existing waterproofing in walls, or install PVC liner and flash up behind existing waterproofing, or install fiberglass pan and use 15# felt (tar paper) to flash behind the waterproofing above, and overlap the lip of the fiberglass pan below. Bolt together the 2 halves of the subdrain. The top half goes on top of the pan, the bottom half is below the pan and has a bead of tar on the top to seal the bottom of the pan to the top half of the subdrain. No cuts, nails or staples or open folds below the top of the dam.

Step #5- Install wire to the walls: Install diamond lathe or other wire to the walls using staples or roofing nails. Careful not to puncture waterproof membrane. Again, no cuts nails or staples below the top of the dam.

Step #6- Install mortar to walls and dam: Mortar usually consists of 3 or 4 parts sand to 1 part cement or you can buy the pre mixed mortar in bags. You can add type s lime to the mix to make it more sticky and dry up faster for easier floating.

Step #7- Install tile to walls and dam: Install tile to walls with thinset. You can mix a little dry pack (see step 8) to support the bottom of your bottom tile from sinking.

Step #8- Dry pack the shower floor: Mix up mortar with little water so that you can clump it together in your hands and it holds it form, but not to much where it becomes mushy. No need to add lime. Slope your floor towards the drain and do not clog the 3 weep holes on your subdrain.

Step #9- Tile the floor: Spread thinset onto your shower floor and tile. You can use a drain frame (tile square) around the drain screen to avoid round cuts.

Step #10- Grout: Apply grout to tile. Grout should have consistancy of toothpaste. Non sanded grout is used for joints 1/8 inch and smaller. Sanded grout is used for joints 1/8 inch and bigger.

Step #11- Polish: Wipe grout residue off tiles about 10 minutes after grouting with dry rag or cheesecloth.

Step #12- Call: If you live in southern California, call Coastline Tile and Shower at (800)313-1078 to fix the shower pan you just tried to install but realized it was a lot harder than it looked. Or go to coastlinetileonline.com. Or you can post a comment below and I can answer your question for you for free. I've been doing this since 1988 and believe me I've seen it all. Good Luck